Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Out the back, by the clothes line

On Sunday I ate a grape, and I liked it.

I don't often eat grapes and perhaps I know why this is: grapes are one of my sacred foods.

Grapes don't do much for me in terms of flavour.  I mostly eat the small dark ones. Not necessarily muscats, but perhaps preferably so.  Grapes appear to have a very particular impact on me, and it is this impact which I don't want to dilute. That is why I don't eat them often.

As I bit into the first grape, which was my first grape in months if not close to a year, memories burst into my mind with surprising freshness.  I grew up around grapes, not in a wine making scenario, but rather household vines which were planted by my grandparents and had grown to cover the entire backyard.  These vines not only provided decent shade for weekend BBQs but also an endless supply of grapes every autumn, before dropping them all over the floors and making a mess of the entire place.  There was around a dozen varieties of grapes in those vines, and each variety occupied a different section of the yard.

I think I was the family member who least enjoyed the grapes. The vines I loved, but grapes fell on the cusp of my food spectrum, and I failed to indulge in their abundance.  I did however have my favourites.  These were the sweet muscats which grew close to the clothes lines and had none of the tartness which the paler grapes had.

My palate has certainly changed over the years, and I've grown to enjoy a number of fruits and veggies, and yet grapes still fall in the blurry edges.  What's different now is the powerful memories they conjure, the general vibe of what it felt like to grow up surrounded by family under the shade of these vineyards.

There are a few dishes which conjure these type of gustatory-inflamed memories and I am trying to manage my consumption of them to ensure their impact doesn't dissipate through over use.  I fear that indulging in these memories will make them fade quicker and I won't have them to remind me of what's gone by.

I recently made a roast chicken on rock salt (pollo a la sal) which had a similar reaction.  Even though there is nothing particularly incredible about roasting a chicken on an inch-high layer of rock salt (other than its deliciously crispy skin!) it was the closest thing I had to tradition when I was growing up. It was almost a Saturday ritual to have pollo a la sal for lunch, before being let out to destroy the world, and now this dish probably comes the closest to helping me retrieve those moments.

For whatever reason, memories helped along by either smell or taste, appear to be incredibly intensified.  Perhaps due to my life as an immigrant, nostalgia has become a powerful force.  As such, grapes, along with various other foods, have taken on a greater role and I look forward to eating them (occasionally) forever.  At least until google can recreate our reactions to them through other means.

Buen provecho!


Thursday, January 26, 2012

The price of soy

What's the difference between egg noodles topped with a tomato based sauce and those swimming in soy?  In Melbourne: about $8.


In the world of comparative food pricing, geographical heritage is possibly the the leading variable.


After finding my new favourite cheap Italian in Melbourne, Macaronni Tratoria, I wondered why there is a lack of Italian or European cuisine in general, available for under $15 in a city where one can easily chow down about 12 dumplings for $7, deliciously filling pho for $8, or a tasty stir fry for under $10. 


Acknowledging that all cuisines are well represented in the higher end of the price spectrum, it is the lower end where the regional focus narrows.


The link does not appear to be based on the wealth of the country where the food originates.  East Asia cuisine is widely available cheaply, regardless of the wealth of the country of origin.  Both Singapore and Japan enjoy higher GDPs per capita than France, not to mention Italy or Spain, which are more in line with Hong Kong, yet donburis and some Singaporean dishes are widely available in single digits.

Some African cuisine appears to follow the East Asia formula, especially the delicious Ethiopian places setting up shop in Footscray.  These aren't quite as cheap as their Asian counterparts, but certainly lean towards the same end of the spectrum. Latin Americans on the other hand appear to ignore this unspoken pricing initiative.  Even prior to the current wave of Mayan idolisation with Mamasita's, the Newmarket Hotel and even Movida's Paco's Tacos all trying to make a few pesos, Mexican food wasn't as cheap as I would have expected.  A cheesy Mexican night out with a Burrito and an Enchilada (or any other combination of rice, beans and finely chopped meat you can make up) will cost you the equivalent of sponsoring a child in Guatemala for a month.  Argentinian restaurants are true to their over-inflated sense of wealth, priced equivalently to the average European restaurant, if not higher (though the sample size is relatively tiny to draw any real conclusions).


So what is impacting these menus? 


Presumably the Melbourne City Council is not subsidising restaurants' rent according to their cultural heritage.  Produce is available in the open market and doesn't include tariffs depending on the purchaser; and industrial relations laws, much like justice, is allegedly blind (at least until proven otherwise).  These three variables (rent, staff and produce) take care of the largest percentages of a restaurant's outgoings, so why the large discrepancy when it comes to costs?


Why is one empanada worth three samosas, one ravioli = two gyoza, and one croquette = four fufu?!
(Ok, the empanadas I completely understand: they're the reason tastebuds evolved.)


Eating out in Australia is relatively expensive. This is probably in part due to our equitable standards of living, with minimum wage being set much higher than in most other similarly wealthy countries, at $15.50 per hour.  In fact, I couldn't find any country with a higher legislated minimum wage, with Luxembourg probably coming the closest ($13.20), while most other countries being a distance behind*.  These, in combination with the current high rental prices, probably prop up our dining costs, but somehow East Asian cuisine manages to break the mold. 


It'll be interesting to see how this changes as Australia's demographics change, and what impact it has on our eating habits, but for now, I'm happy to enjoy what is on offer.


Ita daki mas!!




* For wealth and culturally similar comparisons: Canada's minimum wage is around $9.30 /hour (depending on province); UK's $8.95; USA $6.80...  (all in AU$)